Madan Kamdev
The 'Khajuraho of Assam' — a ruined temple complex in the hills
Scattered across a quiet wooded hillock about 40 km north of Guwahati are the ruins of Madan Kamdev, a temple complex of the 9th to 12th centuries whose carved stone panels have earned it the nickname 'the Khajuraho of Assam'. Fallen sculptures, sensuous figures, deities and decorated pillars lie among the trees, the remains of what was once a major centre of the Kamarupa kingdom.
Little-visited and atmospheric, Madan Kamdev rewards those who like their history quiet and uncrowded. A small archaeological museum on site displays the finest recovered pieces, and the legend — that the site is where Kamadeva, the god of love, was reduced to ashes by Shiva and reborn — gives the place its name and its romance. It pairs naturally with Pobitora or Hajo on a day out from Guwahati.
What to see & do
- Ruined 9th–12th-century temple carvings scattered on the hill
- The on-site archaeological museum's finest sculptures
- The quiet, wooded setting and hilltop atmosphere
- A pairing with Pobitora or Hajo on a Guwahati day trip
Getting to Madan Kamdev
| How to reach | About 40 km / 1.5 hours north of Guwahati near Baihata Chariali; reached by road, no railhead of its own. |
| Best time | October to April; mornings are cool and quiet. |
| Permit | No permit for Assam. |
| Good to know | Combine with Pobitora (rhinos) or Hajo (temples) for a rich, off-beat day out from Guwahati. |
More to explore
Kaziranga National Park
Golaghat & Nagaon districts
The last stronghold of the one-horned rhinoceros.
Manas National Park
Bodoland, Bhutan foothills
A World Heritage tiger reserve on the Bhutan frontier.
Tea Gardens & River Cruises
Upper Assam & the Brahmaputra
Colonial bungalows, endless green, and life on the great river.