Hajo
A rare hill sacred at once to Hindus, Buddhists and Muslims
About 30 km north-west of Guwahati, the small town of Hajo is one of the few places in India held sacred by three faiths at once, a living emblem of the Northeast's syncretism. On one hill stands the Hayagriva Madhava temple; on another, the Poa Mecca mosque; and Buddhist pilgrims, particularly from Bhutan and Tibet, revere the same Madhava temple as a site connected to the Buddha.
The Hayagriva Madhava temple, a stone structure rebuilt in 1583 by the Koch king Raghudeva, enshrines an image of Vishnu as Madhava. Many Buddhists believe the Buddha attained mahaparinirvana here, and come to worship the deity as the Buddha himself — so within one sanctum, Vaishnavites and Buddhists pray side by side.
A short distance away, the Poa Mecca mosque, built over the tomb of the saint Pir Giyasuddin Auliya, is said to hold one-quarter (poa) of the sanctity of Mecca, earning pilgrims a proportionate blessing. Together the shrines make Hajo an unusual and moving half-day trip from Guwahati.
What to see & do
- The Hayagriva Madhava temple, worshipped by Hindus and Buddhists alike
- The carved stone elephants and sculpted panels on the temple plinth
- Poa Mecca mosque and the tomb of Pir Giyasuddin Auliya, with plains views
- The old tank and steps below the Madhava temple
Getting to Hajo
| How to reach | About 30 km from Guwahati, under an hour by road; easily combined with Sualkuchi, the silk-weaving village nearby. |
| Best time | October to April. |
| Timings | Daylight hours. |
| Entry | Free. |
| Good to know | Dress modestly for both the temple and the mosque, and remove footwear. A quiet weekday visit is best. |
More to explore
Kamakhya Temple
Nilachal Hill, Guwahati
The foremost Shakti Pitha and India's great tantric goddess shrine.
Tawang Monastery
Tawang
India's largest monastery, and the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama.
Tripura Sundari Temple
Udaipur
One of India's 51 Shakti Pithas, the guardian deity of the Tripura kings.