NE India
Behdienkhlam
The Pnar festival driving away plague and evil, with towering raths.
Pralaylahiry · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Behdienkhlam — meaning 'driving away the demon of plague' — is the most important festival of the Pnar (Jaintia) people, held each July in the monsoon at Jowai. Young men hoist and dance with towering, brightly decorated bamboo-and-paper structures called rots, and plunge into a muddy pool to haul a sacred log, in rituals seeking health, a good harvest and protection from disease.
It is one of the most energetic and visually striking festivals in Meghalaya, deeply rooted in the indigenous Niamtre faith, and a powerful counterpoint to the state's Christian mainstream.
Photo: Pralaylahiry · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Know before you go
- Held at Jowai, about 1.5–2 hours from Shillong; expect rain and mud — it is a monsoon festival.
- No permit needed for Meghalaya.
- Combine with the Jaintia Hills' waterfalls and Nartiang monoliths.